Architecture devotion and Cosmic Singularity

This post is more related to a trip we made to a few temples near Bangalore rather than to provide a channel for self-realization or moksha - never mind the title :) - So here goes:

Yesterday we visited the beautiful temple town of Thiruvannamalai. Read: "beautiful temple" separate from town. The town (that is - human habitation outside the temple) can barely pass for anything related to civilization. Pretty dirty, crowded and filled with complete chaos.

Thiruvannamalai - Lord Shiva as Shri Arunachaleshwarar
But the grand temple complex more than makes up for it. 25 acres in size, the main temple is walled in like a fort with four entrances in the four cardinal directions, each highlighted by a grand gopuram nearly 15 floors high. This structure has been erected in part by King Krishnadevaraya - fortunately for us that he did that, else the post-independence "secular" Indian Government would have gobbled up this land as well to offer others for free to enable them to build mosques and churches.

Anyways, after the awe-inspiring entrance, one is floored literally by the plethora of artwork on granite. The thresholds, staffs and mainly the numerous pillars everywhere are etched with the work of endless hours, days and years of labour of hundreds of artisans.

The delicacy of various dancers, people, animals and scenes worked on the rock and erected as 10-15 feet tall pillars are amazing. Granite slabs for the roof, 15 storey Gopurams, 10 foot pillars.... All this at a time (that we think) there was little or no mechanization. Strikes me as if we're missing something here !!!

However - we took the Rs.20 "Special Darshanam". The main idol (vigraham) of Shri Arunachaleshwarar was fabulous and beautifully decorated (alankaaram).

The drive from Bangalore to Thiruvannamalai was 200km long.
The first 100km upto Krishnagiri was smooth as a baby's bottom. From there we turned Left (Eastwards) towards Pondicherry (NH66). The road started off on a promising note but proceeded to become a horrible nightmare until Chengam.. At least until Uthangarai, 20km before Chengam. After that the drive was peaceful.

Thirukkoilur - Lord Vishnu as Ulagalandha Perumal (the one who measured the world).
After a very satisfying Darshanam at Thiruvannamalai we proceeded to Thirukkoilur, a town 35km South of Thiruvannamalai. It was a straight road, unbelievably smooth with very little traffic. Dotted by fields of paddy and sugarcane on both sides, this was my first tryst with the real rural India. It was beautiful to say the least. The temple is ancient. Lord Vishnu is manifested as Trivikrama (or Vamana). His right leg points at the Heavens and is worshipped by Brahma. His left leg points downwards and is worshipped by Mahabali. Every point of the grand idol decorated beautifully was explained by the Gurukkal. Ambal (devi) is present in a different temple.
This temple also happens to be one of the 108 Divya Deshams for Vaishnavas.
Ample evidence of the destructive mentality of Muslim invaders is visible in the damage inflicted upon various parts of the temple architecture. However, these barbaric hordes could fortunately not destroy too much - most of the original temple remains, except perhaps for its original riches. What they may have left behind has probably been looted by the Indian Government.

Thirukkoilur - Lord Shiva as Veerateshwarar
Very close by to the Ulagalandha Perumal temple is another even more ancient Shiva temple - Shiva known as Veerateshwarar is worshipped in the form of a Swayambhu Lingam. The temple commemorates His victory of Anthakasura. Also the hallowed grounds of this temple are the birth-place of "Vaasthu Purusha" who is worshipped before occupying a new house in India.
Additionally, legend has it that the Arumugam Murugan and Shri Ganapathy have been worshipped by Avvayar herself. Avvayar reached Kailas directly from here by the aid of Ganapathy Himself.


Thus three wonderful temples that should be a must for people living in/around Bangalore or Chennai.

One more point - there was one temple we missed due to lack of time.
Manalurpettai - Shri Ranganathaswamy temple also known as Thiruvarangam. This is just 10km from Thirukkoyilur. Hopefully we will have the opportunity to offer our respects here the next time.