After many many envious readings of other
travelogues and cancellations of my own plans for a trip, finally we did the drive to Shravanabelagola on Sunday 29th October 2007.
It was a "Let's go!" moment at 10 in the morning, while having our post-breakfast chai that we decided we would go.
So with five adults, one kid and a hastily prepared lunch with all the necessary accessories (puke bags for kiddo, umbrellas, snacks, curd rice, etc) we headed off at 11:15 am from Indiranagar, Bangalore.
The route:We left Indiranagar at 11:15 am. Drove down via Mekhri Circle – Yeshwantpur Circle to Tumkur Road. Kept on this until Neelamangala where we turned left into NH48. Until this point, we took 1 hour and covered only about 35km.
After that it was a straight drive for most ways. The road was not the dream ride I had really anticipated but it wasn’t too bad anyways. There was light traffic (Sunday afternoon). The asphalt surface was gone in numerous places due to the rains probably. The drive was fairly uneventful until we passed Neligere where we found a fork. One has to stick to the right – however, I took the left and had to turn back after about 4km. Beyond that was a peaceful drive until Hirisave – sharp turn there to the left (well marked) for a further 18km to Shravanabelagola. Once there, the road ends, you turn left and see the entrance to the main Vindhyagiri hill as a huge white arch. Turn right there and you can park on the right side of the road, next to the tank.
We reached here at precisely 2:30pm – that is 3 hours after departure.
The drive/car:This should probably be under a different section but I won’t go long about it. The car was my new (less than 2 months old) Hyundai Getz Prime GLS 1.3. Drove like a dream with five adults (and one kid). There was a bit of drag with a/c – however, the weather being nice, we didn’t need the a/c at all. I just crossed 1000km on the odo when we returned.
Everything else:Having packed our lunch, we ate at a park nearby. However, there are some Veggie hotels. Also, one can eat near the entrance (inside) of Vindhyagiri. There are toilets and good drinking/washing water available also.
One has to leave one’s footwear at the base of Vindhyagiri and start the trek to the top. Fortunately we seemed to have picked the perfect day. It was cloudy enough that the steps were not hot, so we did not need the socks we brought. However, visibility was good and it did not rain either.
So we started the trek up the 550 odd steps to the top to offer our respects to one of the most alluring architectural beauty of Karnakata – the Gomateshwara statue. The slow climb up actually gets tougher – the steps become harder (it doesn’t just seem that way – the riser of the steps towards the top is more) as one goes on. However, at periodic stops, the view around is just amazing. No camera – I believe – can really do justice. On reaching near the top, we start getting an idea of how simply breathtaking the work done by the artisans is. I have never traveled much in India – but I was simply taken aback by the beautiful carvings on the various Basadi’s (monasteries) near the top. Periodically one can sight some young jain muni’s silently sitting around or studying. Some of the carvings are intelligently protected by glass shields.
As one enters the main monument, things get even better. Every pillar is a work of art. Even the threshold of the temple has a beautiful flower carving on the granite. Every moment – I was awe struck, imagining the patience and labour of love created by the numerous unknown artisans, chiseling away at the unyielding stone to reveal this marvel of beauty inside it. Once inside, the first view of Gomateshwara leaves one gaping. That someone could carve something so massive, yet delicately beautiful leaves one’s mouth gaping. Every feature of the monolith is visible. The delicacy fo the fingernails, the proportions of the toes, the slight fold of skin around the navel, the hint of a smile around the lips, the calm expression of the face. I was simply left humbled and dumb-founded by Him. Offering my respects I walked around to find little nuggets of treasure in every pillar and stone around.
Even the roof of the temple has wonderful carvings on it. Every bit alluring are the statuettes and frescoes of various women/goddesses everywhere.
There were carvings of games on some of the stones – possibly
Pachisi played by artisans in their spare times.
There are idols of various Teerthankara’s in some of the grotto like parts of the monument. Some parts, lit only by a dim bulb with natural water seepage add to a slightly mystic environment. It is enough to cause one’s imagination to run amok – with visions of the 100’s if not thousands of skilled pairs of hands creating this work for future generations. A legacy of love and devotion.
After seeking the blessings of the priest, I went around on a shooting spree with my digital camera with the results for all to see.
Here are the results - the real work is of course far superior to anything that my poor pictures can convey.
(Please ignore the erroneous date on the photos, btw).
But:The undesirable side of our society was amply visible in some places. Empty Bisleri bottles, plastic covers, etc. Even worse, graffiti like “Pinky loves Bittu”, etc. It was heartbreaking – how could any human being in his/her senses allow such a defiling to happen in such a sacred place?
However:We returned, our hearts full of love and respect for those who created this wonderful place for us to visit, appreciate and cherish. My three-year-old did the steps all the way up and back down by herself, albeit some of the steps were as high as her little legs.
An idea for senior citizens that helped my mother a lot – while climbing down, walk backwards as much as possible. Reduces the strain on your knees big-time. Also, better that someone younger walks in front of them JUST in case....
I realized there is no way one cannot have an emotional feeling when visiting such a marvel of architectural beauty.
The return:We left SBG at 5:40 precisely. The return was simple and straight. We hit the junction of NH48 and Tumkur Road at Neelamangala at 7:30 (approx 110km). I did not go beyond 80kmph since this is a new car. However, at Neelamangala, we ended up waiting for nearly 45min to enter Bangalore thanks to the unyielding and chaotic truck traffic. Back home by 9pm.
Epilogue:I was burning with irritation at the casual irresponsibility and scant respect shown by our society towards such a priceless legacy when - on our way down - there was a group of four adults (2 men, 2 women) who simply opened a chocolate and threw the wrapper aside on the steps. This - when a rubbish bin was just sitting on the right side of the steps at that point.
That was the last straw. I picked up the wrapper and went down to them and in Hindi (my Kannada leaves a lot to be desired) asked "Why don't you have some basic civic sense - there is a trash can on your right. Why do you litter this beautiful place". They gave me a cold glare but then took the wrapper and put it in the right place. Hopefully at least this one family will think twice before littering again...
In any case, berating them offered a slight solace to my irritation and I again happily dwelt on the beauty offered by the wonderous architects of Vindhyagiri.
I certainly hope to add more travelogues in the coming months.
Cheers
Ravi
